AWARDS/REVIEWS

World-class fare Newest Francesca's serves another winning menu
Daily Herald

Francesca's Tavola is proof that you don't need to go to Italy, or even into the city, for world-class Italian fare.

The wild success of the original Mia Francesca, a crowded storefront in Chicago's Wrigleyville neighborhood, has spawned nine restaurant locations for entrepreneur Scott Harris, six of which are in the suburbs, and all of which meet with rave reviews from restaurant critics and locals.

Francesca's Tavola is the newest location (open since summer 2001). Like the original, Francesca's Tavola offers innovative Northern Italian cuisine in a casual setting reminiscent of a Roman trattoria.

Unlike the original, Francesca's Tavola in Arlington Heights accepts reservations, which means suburban diners who plan ahead can avoid the two-hour weekend wait at the Wrigleyville location.

And the food is, simply put, fabulous. Vegetarians, carnivores, children, the health-conscious and pasta lovers will be pleased with Francesca's Tavola's use of fresh ingredients, generous portions and creative combinations. With the exception of a few standbys, the menu changes daily (call if you'd like the daily menu faxed to you).

The bruschette del giorno - this time bruschette con carciofi (artichokes) -was a perfect union of grilled rustic bread and subtly flavored toppings. Hearty slices of bread were topped with chopped tomatoes, chunks of fresh mozzarella and grilled artichokes, then sprinkled with a garlicky olive oil. Highly recommended.

Francesca's Tavola's selection of pizzas work as a light meal or a shared starter. Try the pizza del pescatore, an unusual, light take on America's favorite food. The paper-thin crust held a delicate marinara sauce and plenty of steamed mussels and calamari rings (no cheese).

Pasta selections abound, blending fresh pasta with unique sauces, vegetables and meats. The pasta alla gorgonzola featured mild, homemade cheese tortellini in a buttery gorgonzola sauce tossed with fresh spinach. This indulgence is well worth the calories.

The pesce alla ligure is a lighter but equally satisfying dinner choice. Several large filets of pan-fried sea bass rested on a bed of fresh spinach, drizzled with a rich pesto broth. Chopped tomatoes and plump steamed clams made ideal accompaniments for the delicate flavors of the fish and the sauce.

Other entrees include the vitello alla Francesca, roasted veal medallions with mushrooms and creamy polenta, and pollo arrosto alla romana, half of a chicken roasted with garlic, rosemary, lemon and olive oil.

Don't forgo dessert, even if it means you have to box up most of your entree to take home. The tiramisu was positively ethereal, simply presented in two layers: brandy- and espresso-soaked lady fingers on the bottom and a thick layer of whipped mascarpone on the top.

Dusted liberally with cocoa and cinnamon, this dessert was decadent but only slightly sweet.

The cinnamon gelato - creamy, smooth ice cream with a light hint of cinnamon - was another outstanding choice. Both desserts were enough to share.

Service was adequate. If anything, the bus service was over- zealous, hardly letting the level in our water glasses drop an inch before moving in to refill. And a couple of times someone removed my plate before I'd had a chance to devour every stray morsel.

The wine list, by the bottle and the glass, is impressive. A full bar is also available.

Francesca's Tavola also offers carryout and catering services, with a room for private parties up to 50 people.

Like its sister restaurants throughout the Chicago area, Francesca's Tavola has built a solid reputation based on its high- quality cuisine, rich selection and affordable prices. The atmosphere is pleasantly inviting and the amenities are nice, but food this good could be served on a milk crate and people would still flock to it. One visit and you'll understand why.